As part of their lineage, royal cooks passed on their knowledge from generation to generation. It was a matter of great pride and honour for each senior to be able to convey this valuable information to his son. Owing to their status, and illiteracy, these recipes were communicated verbally, and were never written down. The kitchens operated in a manner, where each cook specialised in a dish, and the recipe of that dish was a closely guarded family secret.

RAJASTHANI CUISINE

The Rajputs of Rajasthan are descendants of the noble warrior class and were keen hunters. Though a large portion of Rajasthan is dominated by vegetarians, the Rajputs are extremely fond of game meat. Quail, partridge and rabbit are fixtures in their preparations. They are one section of royalty that is completely removed from the Muslim influences shared by Hyderabadi and Mughlai or even Awadhi cuisine. Their Hindu heritage and the fact that they lived in the harsh conditions of a desert region influenced the kind of food they cooked and ate. Laal maas and safed maas are the most famous meat preparations of the Rajputs. Laal maas is game meat or any other kind of meat, cooked in a red curry with chillies. It is spicy owing to the chillies found in Mathania, a village close to Jodhpur. Safed maas is meat cooked in milk and hence has a white curry. Another favourite among game meat, is rabbit, and the Jodhpur gharana is famous for a dish called khud kharghosh, which is rabbit or hare meat cooked and roasted in a pit. The most common bread served in Rajasthan is bajre ki roti, made out of millet, a grain found in the area. Today, these recipes are served in five star hotels all over the country, but its origins lie in the honest food, hunted on the unforgiving grounds of this desert land.

AWADHI CUISINE

The rule of the Mughals in India greatly influenced how a significant part of this country dines today. The richness and opulence of the food in this cuisine ensures that it is unmistakably the food of royalty. Lucknow’s Awadhi cuisine is influenced by the Mughal cooking styles. Traditionally, apart from being rich, the food from this region is also very meat-oriented. The explosion of flavours that is evident in Mughlai food comes from the many spices used in a dish. In addition, the aromas that waft through are the result of cooking with ground and whole spices. The bawarchi of Awadh introduced the dum pukht (slow oven) style of cooking hundreds of years ago, which involves sealing the vessel with the food inside, and cooking it over a slow fire. This is along the same lines of pressure cooking and allows the food to cook in its own steam and meat to cook in its own juices and remain tender. This tradition is believed to have arisen from need. The ruler of Awadh, it is said needed to feed his people during a famine. So he ordered a pit to be dug and sealed containers to be put inside, and cooked for a long time on slow coal fires.

The ingredients used, like mutton, saffron, lamb and cardamom ensure richness in the food, as does the assortment of preparations served at a dastarkhwan, which literally means a ceremonial dining spread. A large gathering of people sit around the elaborately laid out table and dine in communion. Two of the most famous dishes in Awadhi cuisine are kormas, kakori and galauti kebabs. Both these dishes have been introduced by the Mughals and are now an intrinsic part of the dastarkhwan. A korma is a preparation that braises meat in a thick, buttery curry, which is rich and delicious but mildly spiced. It is eaten with a variety of Indian breads like naan, tandoori roti or roomali roti. The kakori and galauti kebab is decidedly the most lavish of the kebab family and is distinctly popular because of its smooth velvety texture. Legend has it that these kebabs were prepared for toothless nawabs who didn’t want to give up the luxury of eating meat. The meat is ground and kept moist so that the smoothness remains intact. The difference between kebabs in Awadhi cooking and those in Punjab is that in the former, they are cooked over coal and wood grill and in the latter they are cooked in a tandoor (an oven made of clay).

HYDERABADI CUISINE

The Nizams of Hyderabad were said to be excellent hosts and so it should come as no surprise that the menus served at these stately affairs were nothing less than extraordinary. Their elaborate feasts were a matter of pride and honour, and cemented their status in society. Awadhi, Mughlai and Hyderabadi have a sense of commonality in the fact that they are all Muslim colonies and have similar food items, but cooked in drastically different ways. Hyderabadi cuisine focusses on procuring the right kind of ingredients and cooking them in a certain way to create a desired result. They are famous for the use of elements like tamarind and coconut in many preparations that lend it a distinctive flavour. Though practically every state has its own version of the biryani, the Hyderabadi biryani has become something of a legend in India today. They have two ways of preparing the biryani, one is called pakki biryani and the other is called kacchi gosht biryani. The pakki biryani is when the meat and rice are cooked separately and then layered together, and is similar to the awadhi style of biryani. In the kacchi style, the meat is marinated and the meat and rice are cooked together in a dough-sealed container. This style requires lots of effort to ensure that the meat is cooked perfectly, without over-cooking the rice. It is served along with mirch ka salan (gravy of green chilly) and dahi chutney (yoghurt mixed with mint chutney and onions). Hyderabad is also famous for other non-vegetarian dishes like nihari, which is cooked overnight and traditionally eaten in the morning at the break of dawn. It is rich with the flavour of bone marrow and tender pieces of meat that just slide off the bone. Their preparation of raan, a leg of lamb, is also a long, tedious process of marinating the meat overnight and cooking it in an oven the next day. The royal cooks or khansamas knew the importance of the virtue of patience when it came to creating good food, and consequently turned it into an art form.

-- With inputs from Rajdeep Kapoor, Executive Chef, ITC Maratha and Akshraj Jodha, Master Chef, ITC Sheraton Rajputana

This is an article I wrote for  Time 'N Style magazine, September-October 2011 issue

Aspiring high…

I was far removed from the hospitality industry when I first began my career. After completing my engineering in America, I worked for Cadbury for a while, but I realised it wasn’t for me. I then tried out the NGO sector, but I figured I couldn’t build a life with that salary. I slowly entered the hospitality field, when I opened a small venture called Party Lines, through which I organised boat parties. It started doing quite well! Ultimately, I opened a small café in the Flora Fountain area of Mumbai called Just Desserts, which was a decade before opening the Olive Bar and Kitchen. So it did take me a lot of time and a couple of trials, before I actually realised that my passion lay in this business.

Of trials and tribulations…

As with any other entrepreneurial venture, I faced many challenges through my career. Working through those meant finding a way to handle the external environment and the people involved in it. When the Bowling Company was started, we got caught between the mill workers and the government. Again, when we started Olive in Delhi and Bengaluru, we had to deal with everything--from the ministers to facing restrictions from the surrounding residential areas. Also, obtaining quality ingredients and produce is a big challenge, because ultimately the success of a restaurant depends on the quality of food. Initially, I also struggled with trying to attract the right crowd to the restaurant, but that happened over time.

Inspiring palate…

I was in Phuket, Thailand with friends and family, years ago and we ate at the same place practically everyday. It had such a comfortable, lazy vibe to it that we found ourselves completely relaxed. I wanted that same feeling of leisure and peacefulness in my restaurant. I found an architect, who worked with my vision. It turned out just the way I had expected!

An experience…

I feel that having the right luxurious ambience is integral to the entire restaurant experience. People need a place to enjoy the cuisines and food they taste, so the external atmosphere has to be conducive for leisure. Outdoor spaces, with elements of nature, add to the feeling of creative freedom and serenity.

Standing out…

I believe in sticking to the basics. You can’t go wrong if you’ve perfected them. Finally, it all comes down to great food, good wine and warm service. Until you have all these ingredients in the right proportions and working the right way, you will not enjoy success. I also like to be involved in all the processes of the restaurant, so even though my chefs conceptualise the menu, I do participate in the discussions and tastings.

This is an article I wrote for the Time 'N Style Luxury June-July 2011 issue

This is an article I did for the Time 'N'Style Luxury June-July issue

Walking into Spices, at the Marriott Hotel in Juhu has all the makings of a grand entrance. A long wooden pathway, leads into a spacious, pool-facing restaurant, with perfect lighting to set the right ambience for a quiet evening dinner, a business meeting or even a get-together for family and friends. The theme stays true to the cuisine being served, with genuine Thai handicrafts and fabric screens lining the informal sit-down bars, that truly gives it a complete Asian vibe. This authentic South East Asian restaurant offers oriental cuisine for the well-honed palate that craves genuine fare. It is not tweaked in any way to suit local tastes. The restaurant also has a Sushi bar and Teppanyaki counter where chefs dish out delicious treats just for you.After taking our seats, we were pleasantly surprised by the complimentary khimchi and prawn wafers that arrived to tide us through our decision making process. The crunchy, fried prawn wafers worked in direct contrast to the sweet-sour khimchi, a Korean specialty of mildly spiced and flavoured array of vegetables. 
With the addition of four new top chefs, Thomas Wee, Rahul Borja, Jacky Yiu and Keny Ngan, Spices has revamped their menu to reflect authentic Cantonese, Japanese and South East Asian flavours.

Flavours of Asia

We started with an array of dim sums, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian that was made with such precision that the authenticity of taste shone through and through. The Steamed Hao Gao Crystal Tiger Prawn Dumplings with Asparagus were perfectly translucent, bite-sized and delicious, while the Steamed Sea Crab and Prawn Dumpling had the interesting zest of ginger to flavour the filling. From the fried variety, the Deep Fried BBQ Chicken Dried Shrimp and Mushroom Dumpling, made of puff pastry with a creamy filling, made for an interesting bite because of the contrast between the doughy pastry and the soft, almost creamy centre.  And the Deep Fried Rice Paper Minced Sesame Prawn Roll displayed crunchy flawlessness.
If you are a sushi lover, this array will not disappoint. The sushi platter includes everything from salmon, tuna, mackerel and prawn nigiri sushi—handmade sushi of rice, topped with a piece of seafood held together with a thin piece of seaweed—to vegetarian options of crunchy asparagus maki rolls that are cylindrical rolls of a main condiment in the centre, wrapped around by sticky rice and a seaweed cover over it. Coupled with soya and a hint of wasabi with sweet pickled ginger to cleanse your palate, you might as well be bang in the middle of Tokyo! The sushi consists of seaweed and sticky rice, with a main condiment of seafood or vegetable.

Lastly, the Cantonese-style main course consisting of Braised Deluxe Chinese Dried Seafood with Superior Stock and Chinese Herbs, Steamed Sea Bass Spicy Garlic and Vegetable Clay Pot satiated our hunger completely. The fish preparation, topped with crunchy fried garlic, was so soft it melted in our mouths, while the Dried Seafood with Superior Stock was decidedly Cantonese, with its mild and distinctive fishy flavouring. Not to despair, vegetarians also have a lot to choose from, and the mixed vegetable gravy Vegetable Clay Pot that we sampled was to die for.

The talented chefs along with their teams have taken Spices to a new level of culinary excellence as they specialise in the art of dim sum, sushi, sashimi, wok, and Cantonese cuisine, and therefore bring forth a new and authentic South East Asian dining experience.

This is an article I did for Time 'N Style magazine July-August 2011

Starting Out

For as long as I can remember, I have been truly fascinated with food. Everywhere I went, whether it was school or at home itself, I was always wondering and wanting to learn more about food. I grew up in Italy, by the Lake Garda and while other boys my age were out playing football, all I did was help out in the kitchen. Eventually, once I became a chef, the fascination continued with the varied experience and learning I gained on my travels around the world. It is actually a never-ending process.

Of travels and tastes

I love Hong Kong because the fusion of east and west influences makes the food interesting and unique, with the mix of ingredients and cooking techniques. Another favourite of mine is Thailand because again, the ingredients used bring out so many unimaginable flavours. Lastly, since I am Italian, it is impossible to deny my roots when it comes to cuisine. We stick to our traditions and value high quality, fresh ingredients, and that automatically reflects in the food.

Unfortunately, I haven’t had a chance to visit India yet, but I would love to some day soon. I am absolutely fascinated by the range of spices that are used in Indian cusine and though I am a big fan of Indian fare in general, but one of my favourites is lentils in their various preparations and the different kinds of breads that are baked there. I would also love to learn to cook any of the Indian curries.

Seasonal Changes

I do plan my menus according to the change of the seasons, but I don’t think it has to do with the fact that I have worked in the Asia-Pacific region. Wherever I work, my cuisine is still based on the availability of fresh products and that entirely depends on the seasons. So, my menus can clearly be defined to be one for each season. I tend to feel cold during the monsoon, so I would recommend having some kind of soup, preferably spicy, with Asian herbs – lemon grass, galangal, coriander or bergamot leaves. It is the ultimate comfort food on a rainy day.

Asian Influence

I spent five years in Thailand and it was a crucial period in my carreer. My stint there definitely influenced my methods and tastes because now my cuisine is based on traditional Italian recipes that have a hint of Asia in it. The variety of ingredients, produce, spices and flavour-all of it is just amazing. I find it easy to combine Asian spices with Italian products. It all lies in how you use the spice, and making sure the level is not too aggressive because that would kill every other flavour. Everything must be balanced well. One of our most recent creations is one where we are combining traditional Italian cotechino, which is very similar to salami with Indian Beluga (black) lentils and it is one of the most popular dishes now.

It is a proud moment for any chef to receive a Michelin star. The satisfaction one feels is incomparable to anything else because it always feels good to be appreciated no matter what field you’re in. I experienced great satisfaction that the hard work and passion of my team and me was noticed.

Self Expression

My personality and creativity is on the plate. I like to play around with ingredients and so, many times you can find variations of one product on the plate – for example I prepared tuna in three different ways: tartar, seared and poached, or we use different parts of the lamb for one dish; the rack, leg and shoulder, belly and pair it with sweet bread.

This is an article I wrote for the June-July 2011 issue of Time 'n Style Luxury magazine

iPad menus have swept over Mumbai like a storm, and are leaving the rest of India gasping to keep up.

The introduction

iPad menus are steadily replacing the conventional paper menus with the hope that this technology will bring a new level of novelty to the dining experience. KOH, at the Intercontinental Marine Drive, Royal China restaurants and Escobar are forerunners in introducing this technological development to the Indian hospitality sector. “We felt like it was a good move to monopolise on all the hype around the iPad as its interactivity is what makes it popular,” says Neville Vazifdar, owner of Royal China. While maintaining the focus on food, it helps to have a tech-savvy addition for guests to fiddle around with. “We wanted to capitalise on this technology so as to reduce the usage of paper. Though we still do have paper menus, this is the first step towards a completely paperless, eco-friendly experience,” adds Vardhaman Choksi, owner, Escobar. Romil Ratra, GM at the Intercontinental Marine Drive provides another reason for the change, “In keeping with KOH’s young and hip vibe, the concept of an interactive digital menu fits right in.”

How to use it

“Although automated, the process is still manual and has a personal element to it. The iPad just provides a platform to visually see your options of food and wine both and thus make a more informed choice,” explains Romil. Each restaurant’s application is specially designed to incorporate the feel and cuisine of that place. “Our menu is meant for browsing, and it mentions details like the price and how many pieces come in one serving. That said, the menu is not a replacement for the staff, and you cannot place orders directly into the kitchen,” adds Neville. As with the other two, Escobar’s iPad application manoeuvres through their wide selection, accompanied by high resolution images, price details and descriptions of the food items. 

Customer reaction

The reaction has been nothing but positive. Even though, standby paper menus are available at all the restaurants, not one person has asked for it. Everyone, young and old, revel in the uniqueness that this kind of menu provides. Add to that, the fact that some people haven’t had a chance to use an iPad, it becomes a hit in any space. “We have noticed that people are more open now to trying new dishes because they can see what each dish looks like, and they are encouraged to be a little adventurous in their choices,” adds Vardhaman.READERS QUOTES
The positives* It encourages bold choices from the menu, because diners can see what a dish looks like.* The customer gets the best of both worlds where he/she is allowed to browse through the visual menu as well as enjoy the personal attention from the server.* Regular visitors tend to stray from the ‘usual’.* With its easy-to-use interactive interface, picking what to eat becomes more fun.* It is eco-friendly because of the minimisation of paper being used.

Fad or fix?

The possibilities are endless when it comes to developing technology, and with the new wave of gadgets like the iPad infiltrating spaces like the restaurant business, this is a trend that is definitely here to stay. “Technology is the future,” states Romil concisely. It is well worth the hype because it adds something new to the process of dining. “With more advancement, the apps will become more consumer-friendly, and restaurants that can afford it will continue using this technology,” says Vardhaman. As it grows, you can expect direct orders to the kitchen, automatic bill totalling, customer feedback options and maybe even an in-built memory to recall customers’ previous choices! Pull outLuxe viewIt is undeniably an experience in luxury to enter a restaurant and flip through an iPad, instead of a conventional paper menu. Because the iPad is a high end gadget, it carries with it a feel of exclusivity and adds to the ambience of a dining institution. It adds to the overall experience of dining because it immerses you in the experience itself.

This is an article I wrote for the June-July 2011 issue of Time 'n Style Luxury magazine

Michelin star Chef Igor Macchia of La Credenza, Italy is dynamic, well-travelled and above all else, supremely passionate about food.

What is your food philosophy?I just have one rule: keep it simple. I make it a point not to put too many ingredients on one plate because I feel that if you’ve ordered something, you need to taste it. If you mix too many tastes and textures, you end up losing the essence of the dish. I ensure not to confuse my guests. When you go to a fine dining restaurant, you don’t want to think too much! So you need a dish that is easy to understand, looks good and tastes even better.

Which has been your most interesting food destination and why?

Every place I've visited has exposed me to a whole new gamut of ideas, techniques and tastes. This is why it is difficult to choose one place. It depends on my mood. So if I crave some spice, I immediately want Indian food and if I want clean and simple flavours, it has to be Japanese.

Which Indian dish is your favourite and one you would love to learn how to cook?It would have to be tandoori. It’s closest to the tastes of Italian people, albeit with a little less spice.

Which creation of yours is closest to your heart?

It’s like working with children, you don’t play favourites! With my plates, each one has a story behind it, and every story is different. When I conceptualised my lamb marinated in espresso, I wanted to try the Asian technique of marinating the meat before cooking it and I thought of using coffee, because Italians love their coffee. Conversely, for my signature risotto, I use ingredients that are local and remind me of home.

What did it feel like as a Chef to get a Michelin star?

I was really happy because it’s just like an Academy Award for a chef. Once you have it, you have a much greater responsibility. Your focus should always be on the passion for the food, because ultimately you are still a chef and have to still enjoy what you’re doing.

Do you think food is a medium of self expression?

When you cook, and plate dishes, you have to put in a lot of soul; only then will your plate reflect your personality.

Your restaurant completed 20 years this year. What did you do to celebrate?

We hosted a dinner for the press, explaining our food philosophy, and also renovated our restaurant. In November 2011, we’re coming out with a cookbook, for which I’ve been travelling.

You like to play with techniques and flavours, how do you come up with ideas for your dishes?

I've been a chef for 16 years. In your mind, you know which flavours match and which don’t. After that, it’s about your personal touches and which produce is better to use. Sometimes you start with beef, but realise lamb would work better. I’ve taken as little as two weeks and up to a year to develop a dish. Sometimes, you work on an idea for a dish for a really long time, and in the end, you have to scrap it because it just doesn’t work! It’s all part of the game.

MACCHIA’S FAVOURITES

Dish: It changes from time to time, but pasta is an all-time favourite, especially Cannelloni.

Memory: I was in Bangkok for a photo shoot for a book that we are releasing. We were in a slum of Bangkok, at a cooking school, managed by a Thai woman, where I was learning about Thai food and teaching them whatever I could of Italian cooking. When we finished the demonstrations, we invited them to eat, and as soon as they started serving themselves, it started to pour. It was beautiful because all of us ate while it was pouring outside.

Meal: Again, in Thailand on a small secluded island beach called Banana Rock where I ate barbecued fish. It was fresh and delicious.

Ingredient: Parmesan cheese

Unusual thing you've eaten: Dog, in China

Health item: Tea

Why: Tucked away in an inconspicuous corner of a mill compound in Lower Parel, Café Verandah is an oasis of calm amidst the bustle of the city. The menu is dominated with a long list and variety of exotic teas from across the globe and also has a few appetisers, salads and desserts to pick from. You can try blossoming teas like kafir lily, where the tea leaves open out into a blossom revealing beautiful flowers when met with hot water. Among the choice of herbal teas, the rose-bud tea is refreshing, light and visually amazing. Each type of tea has its own health benefits, and you can choose one depending on what you want out of it.

Health item: Salads

At: Eat Around The Corner, Bandra

Why: The suburban crowd knew and loved Just Around the Corner as the one place you could go to unwind over a coffee, gorge on a pizza or nibble on a soup-salad combo. In its new avatar though, rechristened as Eat Around the Corner is almost unrecognisable in décor and vibe alike. Minimalistic and clean interiors throw light on what is really important; the food. Moving away from the all you can eat style; they now serve generous fixed portions of salads and entrees, along with an assortment of soups, sandwiches pizza by the slice and desserts. The salads are a delicious meeting of taste and health, as they use fresh ingredients and a perfect amount of dressing, to create something that even a full blown carnivore would enjoy.

Health item: Dimsum

At: Royal China, Bandra and VT

Why: Who says that you have to sacrifice taste to eat right? Steamed dimsum is a perfect example of a non-oily, non heavy alternative to fried, oily apetizers. For a truly authentic experience in Cantonese cuisine, visit Royal China to discover delights like the Seafood dumplings with Ginger Chilli oil, Prawn and Chive dumpling and Cheung Fun, which is a roll made out of rice noodles and stuffed with prawn, beef or pork. Dimsum is cooked and served in a steamer basket and come in small helpings of 2-4 pieces as they aren’t meant to be a meal but just appetisers to munch on before you move on to your next course.

Health item: Granola bars

Why: Amidst the cupcake and baking phenomenon Amrita’s healthy treats does one thing to stand out: makes her treats healthy, just as the name suggests. With a menu ranging from tea cakes to cookies, she knows that her clientele want to satisfy their sweet tooth but not at the cost of excess calories. But, among all that is offered, her granola bars are sure to be the best in the city.

Health item: Frozen yoghurt

Why: Newly opened on Carter road, Yogurtbay is creating a frenzy among dessert lovers and health freaks alike. With a flavour of the day that changes everyday, to non-fat frozen yogurt with a choice of toppings that range from fresh fruits to everything else, this is a craze that is here to stay. With flavours like mojito and strawberry, its like gelato, but better for you, and definitely more fun to eat.

Article written for iDiva April 23, 2011 issue

My baby nephew's christening was last month and I was in the mood for some sweet celebration. So I did what I knew best. One call to my friend-who-is-almost-family, Ryanna and the ball started to roll. Soon one Lemon Sponge Cake with lemon curd turned to three of the same with beautiful flower detailing. And, almost 5 dozen cupcakes which had a blue and white theme. Her detailing with the icing and gum paste work on the cupcakes were extraordinary and I can tell you if you have a theme party, she will be able to deliver right to the T.

The fluffy, soft cupcakes were topped with frosting and everything baby-like from tiny rattles, bibs, prams, feeding bottles and booties! Not only are her cakes a treat for the eyes, they taste yummy~licious too. I almost pity the people who live outside Goa and won't be able to order her lovely cakes and amazing savoury items.

Visit her facebook page to see a detailed menu here

Photos courtesy Ryanna Rufus